Monday, June 29, 2015

The Alaska Highway
Day 31, 25 June 2015
Dawson Creek, BC to Fort Nelson, BC 281 miles
The Alaska Highway connects Dawson Creek, BC with Fairbanks, AK. After the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor, the construction of the highway was deemed a military necessity to defend North America. It was built from March to October 1942. Although Dawson Creek placed a Mile 0 marker in its town center, the actual start was at what is now the visitor’s center a few blocks away. At the time, Dawson Creek’s population was 600. But 11,000 American troops, 16,000 civilian workmen from both Canada and the US, and 7,000 pieces of equipment arrived, mostly by train, to build the 1500-mile highway through the wilderness, at a cost of $140M. It was opened to the public in 1948. Since then, it has been widened, improved, and paved, and we’re going to drive the length of it to Fairbanks. This section of the highway is in pretty good shape, with a few construction areas where crews were repairing winter damage. We were not alone – caravans were coming through. We crossed the Muskwa River bridge, which is the lowest point on the Alaska Highway – about 1,000 ft.  Our first stop was Fort Nelson, originally a fur trading post. The Heritage Museum features the history of the Alaska Highway, with a display of pioneer artifacts, antique cars and machinery. Interestingly, the sun rises here at 4 AM and sets at 10:30 PM.
Actual Mile 0 Site of Alaska Highway

Sections of highway under improvement

RV Parade

Muskwa River - lowest point on the Alaska Highway

Nice Museum
Antique shovel used on Alaska highway
Do you believe this is 10:30 pm!



Enjoying the fire at "Camp Cocktail"


Day 32, 26 June 2015
Fort Nelson, BC to Muncho Lake, BC  153 miles
The section of the Alaska Highway from Fort Nelson to Watson Lake is said to be the nicest stretch of the trip. The drive to Muncho Lake certainly verified that. Although there were spots that were being rebuilt, the highway was in good shape and quite scenic. We passed Summit Lake, the highest point on the highway – 4,250 ft.  We spotted Stone Sheep who were crossing the highway.
We camped at the Northern Rockies Lodge and RV Park on a very nice setting on Muncho Lake. The lodge was built in 1995.  Urs, the Swiss owner, is a pilot and loves to take folks to nearby national parks and fishing trips in his seaplane. The glacial lake itself is over 400 ft. deep. Rustic cabins housed vacationing fishermen, and they had a beautiful dining room in the lodge where we took advantage of the fine menu.

Summit Lake - highest point on Alaska Highway

Northern Rockies Lodge Campground
Northern Rockies Lodge

Northern Rockies Lodge Dining room
Urs' seaplane on Muncho Lake



Day 33, 27 June 2015
Muncho Lake, BC to Watson Lake, YT  165 miles
The road snakes through the canyon alongside the Trout River. We saw more Stone Sheep - no idea why they were nibbling on the dirt on the road. Liard Hot Springs was near one of the highway’s major construction camps, so hot baths were in order. Now the springs are within a provincial park at the end of a boardwalk with changing rooms and hanging gardens. We couldn’t resist soaking in the hot water in this natural setting. We finally saw a bison, just munching on grass by the road – well, it was lunchtime. At Contact Creek soldiers building the highway from the south met those coming down from the north, completing the southern portion of the Alaska Highway.  More bison were near the highway. We entered Yukon Territory just after Contact Creek. The Downtown RV Park in Watson Lake was nothing spectacular, but it had a self RV wash (which we took advantage of) and it was within walking (in our case bicycling) distance to everything. The liquor store and grocery were normal stops, but the coolest, most unexpected place was the Signpost Forest. A US Army soldier working on the construction of the highway in 1942 posted a sign to his home town on a pole near the highway. Since then, over 75,000 signs have been added by visitors, now including us. Folks post license plates, frisbies, pots and pans, cutting boards, you name it. We had no idea there were so many, but we had to add our own, as makeshift as it was. If anyone travels through Watson Lake, check out our sign near the visitors center. The Northern Lights Center was also cool. The planetarium-style show featured black holes and aurora borealis. Nice surprise on the Alaska Highway.
Trout River

Stone sheep
Liard Hot Springs
Buffalo herd with babies

Contact Creek
Signpost forest


Hometown was here
Our very own sign


Day 34, 28 June 2015
Watson Lake, YT to Whitehorse, YT 265 miles
Never heard of this before, but there was a section of the highway where people left messages in the hillside – they spelled out names or notes with rocks. We even saw a guy shaping a heart with rocks – maybe a love note? We stopped at Rancheria Falls, a beautiful little trail to two waterfalls in a canyon that was originally a gold mining settlement. The continental divide was interesting. The river systems split – the streams that lead to the Yukon River flow to the Bering Sea (Pacific), and the water that flows to the Mackenzie River flows to the Beaufort Sea (Arctic). We crossed over the Nisutlin Bay Bridge, which is the longest span (1917 ft) on the Alaska Highway. We also enjoyed visiting the Tlingit Heritage Museum in Teslin. We met a Tlingit woman, named Margaret Douville, who teaches the traditional skills of tanning hides and making gloves and moccasins. She gave a presentation at the center and told some heart-warming personal stories about her children.  We visited the town of Whitehorse, including, of course, the Yukon Brewery. And we had dinner with our new found friends from CampCocktail, Dave and Susan, who we caught up to in Whitehorse. A good day.


Happy rock message
Love rock message?

Rancheria Falls



Hiking around the falls
Continental Divide
Nisutlin Bridge - longest span on the Alaska Highway

Frog Totem

Tlingit Heritage Center

Tlingit presentation
Hand tanned, sewn and beaded mocassin
Delicious meal at Wolf's Den Restaurant

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Day 28, 22 June 2015
Calgary, AB to Lake Louise, AB 136 miles
After a delicious steak and eggs breakfast with Alex and Rowland, it didn’t take very long to get to Banff National Park.  And what a magnificent place, with gorgeous mountains, nice scenic highway, and lots of trails and lookouts to explore. We walked around the town of Banff and its many shops and restaurants, discovering, among other things, a Harley shop and the Banff Ave Brewery where we had to sample the local brew over lunch. The drive on scenic 1A to Lake Louise was awesome. We hiked the Lake Moraine trail and afterwards rewarded ourselves to the famous Bloody Caesars at the magnificent Chateau, before relaxing at our wooded campsite near the rapids on the crystal clear Bow River at Lake Louise. Life is good!

Weeping Wall
Castle Cliffs
Banff Ave Brewery

Banff Ave

 
Lake Moraine

Moraine Lake hike
Caesars at Lake Louis Chateau
Hike along the Bow River



Day 29, 23 June 2015
Lake Louise, AB to Hinton, AB 214 miles
The Icefields Parkway was built by Parks Canada as a scenic drive to showcase the powerful natural landscape of Jasper and Banff national parks. It has been called one of the world’s most scenic drives. At the Crowfoot Glacier pullout, you can see the edge of the glacier as it falls over the rock below. Originally, it looked like a three-toed crowsfoot, but one toe melted. The vibrant blue Bow Lake is the source of the Bow River, and it has a magnificent mountain backdrop. The Columbia Icefield is the largest mass of glacial ice in the Canadian Rockies. From the Snow Dome in the Columbia Icefield, meltwater flows to three different oceans: on the BC side, meltwater flows into the Columbia River to the Pacific ocean; on the AB side, the North Saskatchewan River flows into the Atlantic; also on the AB side, the Athabasca River feeds into the Arctic Ocean. Some folks were hiking on the glacier. And the stunning Athabasca River thunders over the canyon below at Athabasca Falls. Awesome 233km drive through some of Canada’s most beautiful natural wonders.

Crowfoot Glacier

Bow Lake

Columbia Icefields

Athabasca Falls
Athabasca Falls
Athabasca River



Day 30, 24 June 2015
Hinton, AB to Dawson Creek, BC 290 miles

Since we saw the sign to Rt 40 “the scenic route to Alaska,” we knew we were going in the right direction. It was nice, through the mountains, along the Smokey River. This was an introduction of what is to come, with 180 km between any services. Grande Cache, the only town between Hinton and Grande Prairie, did have a gas station, hardware store and grocery. It was named after the huge stash of furs a fur trader had shipped and left there. This was historically a major trading center for animal pelts. Grande Prairie, on the other hand is bigger, with a population over 55,000, and serves as a business and transportation center for the Peace River valley (meaning lots of red lights and trucks). We were on a roll from an early start, so we headed to Dawson Creek, BC. This is Mile Zero of the Alaska Highway. We went to the Alaska Highway House to learn about the construction of the highway, and we posed for a photo at the Mile 0 marker in the middle of town. Then we celebrated our arrival over Bloody Caesars at Brown’s Social Club where we met the owner, Darcy, who recommended to us his favorite dishes, and they were really good! We enjoyed Rocktails (their camptails) with our new campsite neighbors, Dave and Susan, from Ohio, also going to Alaska. Turns out alcohol and ice cream are favorites of campers, too.









It all started in 1942

Taking time to smell the roses


Mile 0 Signpost

Al & Darcy at Brown's Social Club

Our Neighbors Dave & Susan