Day 60, 24 July 2015

Kenai, AK to Homer, AK 91 miles

Nice views of Mt Iliamna and Mt Redoubt, volcanoes still steaming. Stopped at a Russian Orthodox Church, with a beautiful view of Nanilchik Village. We discovered Anchor Point (where Captain Cook, looking for the Northwest Passage, lost his anchor). Turns out this is the most westerly highway point in North America. There is a tremendous tide here – over 20 ft. At low tide, tractors go out on the sand with trailers to retrieve boats in the water. In Homer, our Ocean View RV Park campsite was amazing – we had a hillside campsite with an unobstructed view of the bay, the mountains, and a bald eagle’s nest. Homer is “the Halibut fishing capital of the world.”  The Homer Spit (“spit” is a geological landform) features the longest road into ocean waters in the world, and was named one of the best 100 beaches in the US for its incredible views and variety of wildlife along its 4.5 mile trail that runs from its base to its tip. We biked the trail and met John, a crusty 75-year-old from Minnesota who is in his 30^th year in Homer, building his 12^th RV while living in his 10^th (sold his 11^th). He has traveled everywhere except Mongolia and Siberia, where he plans to go next summer.  We discovered the Salty Dawg Saloon, whose dollar bills tacked to its ceiling and walls would shame Crabby Bill and the folks at Cabbage Key.

Mt Illiamna

Russian Orthodox Church and graveyard

 

View out door of Rocky

Homer Spit

Fishing in harbor off Homer Spit

John and one of his homemade rigs

Enjoying local beers at the Salty Dawg with Joan and Bob

Day 61, 25 July 2015

After a very nice breakfast at Spit Sisters on the boardwalk, we hopped on the ferry to Seldovia, viewing humpback whales and sea otters on the way. Seldovia means herring, named after the Bay of Herring by a Russian guy in the 1740s. Old boardwalk, stilt homes, historic part of town that almost survived the 1964 tsunami, fishermen under the Seldovia Slough, gravel alleys and back streets – a very different kind of town. Had lunch at the Boardwalk Hotel – quite good. Hiked on a trail through the woods where we found salmonberries. And had a beer with some locals at the Lynnwood Pub and Grill. Met some characters. Interesting how self-reliant Alaskans are, especially those in the places without highways connecting them to everyone else. An ATV is the vehicle of choice on the island, and lots of other places in Alaska. Back in Homer, we drove up the West Hill Rd for a great view of the town and surrounding mountains and waterways.

Yummy breakfast

Boarding the Seldovia Ferry

Nice day on the ferry

Boardwalk in Seldovia

View from the boardwalk

Unique flower pots

Stilt homes along the water dealing with 20-ft tides

Picking salmonberries on the hiking trail

Enjoying a beer at the pub

Common mode of transport

Day 62, 26 July 2015

Homer, AK to Portage Valley, AK  182 miles

We took the 1-hour Portage Glacier tour, narrated by a Chugach National Forest ranger on board describing the glacier and the area’s geology. Saw no wildlife in Portage Lake, due to the silt from the greywacky washing down from the glaciated mountain, but we got up close and personal to the glacier, dropping icebergs into the water. We also visited the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, where they care for wounded animals and, sometimes, release them back into the wild when they are healed. Bison, elk, moose, brown bear, an eagle, lynx, and a porcupine were some of the residents. A really nice feature of the Portage Valley RV park was the nightly campfire in the community shelter. Everyone brought drinks and gathered at the fire pit, providing a great opportunity to meet other travelers and compare experiences.

Moses (one of the crew) entertaining us

Portage glacier

Cracks on the glacier

Bear at Alaska Wildlife Conservancy Center

Eagle with one wing

Moose up close and personal

Making new friends by the fire

Day 63, 27 July 2015

Portage Valley, AK to Valdez, AK 111 miles by road, 92 miles by ferry

To get to the ferry terminal in Whittier, we had to pass through a one-lane tunnel, alternately shared by eastbound traffic for 30 min, then westbound traffic for 30 min, and all wait when the train comes through twice a day. We boarded the high-speed ferry, Rocky and the Jeep and all - the FVF Fairweather was the nicest boat we’ve cruised on so far - furnished nicely, roomy, and it was the only one that served beer and wine.  In Valdez, we bought some fresh Pacific Cod from a fish market for dinner.

Lining up for tunnel

Inside the one lane tunnel

Nice ferry

Enjoying the ride

Day 64, 28 July 2015

Valdez, AK to Kenny Lake, AK 94 miles

Enjoyed Keystone Canyon again, with its steep walls, waterfalls, and tunnels. And we had to stop and hike to the Worthington Glacier – Charli’s favorite. Camped at Kenny Lake, since it was the only campground on the Edgerton Highway that had hook ups.

In the tunnel with company this time

We made it through

Got to touch the glacier again

How to cool down in summer